DEAN'S DIARY JUNE 1998

Our first rain this winter has just fallen in Durban - it was not even for a whole day, but enough to give a bit of water to the plants and grass and also to clear the air and to provide a crystal clear sky! This rain will mean snow on the peaks of the nearby Drakensberg Mountains, which I shall be visiting again next week - lovely!

I have so much news to tell you, I am not to sure where to begin! The main news is my most recent safari - The Honeymoon Safari, as I call it now! I won't give too much detail as the lovely couple have promised me that they shall be making a website of their safari and then I will be able to provide a link to it - GREAT, but it shall take a while for them to develop their 17 spools and decide which pictures to use and then to scan their pictures, compile their text and then actually create the webpage - so in a month or two, I shall include their website in my Diary entry and also from my main Tripod website.

So, briefly - Dave and Bernie's Honeymoon Safari:

What an arrival - we both had problems at Durban International Airport - I had parked in the space allocated for Tour Operators - to load up Dave and Bernie's luggage and then the security official said I had to pay R500 for a permit, go park somewhere else, or he would lock my wheels! - well the parking elsewhere was R5-00, so I moved! Then I waited for what seemed hours in the International Arrivals and then Bernie came through and introduced herself - did have any problems recognising me - I was the only person left - and said a suitcase was missing! Well, to cut a long story short - their missing suitcase had missed the connecting flight from London to Durban after having flown from Glasgow - about 5 hours later it arrived!!

As Tuesday the 16 June was a holiday and also the Internationally famous annual Comrades Marathon was being run from Durban to Pietermaritzburg - all 87 kms of it - we decided to drive up to Cato Ridge, which was past the half-way mark and watch them for a while. Little did I realise that both Dave and Bernie were still recovering from the wedding reception which had been held on Saturday night, plus the long flight - well, they showed true amazement at the sheer size and organisation of this Ultra-marathon, which has over 13 000 athletes taking place and probably over 150 000 spectators lining the route of 87 kms!!! It is televised live and is really a fantastic event. I try and watch it every year as the atmosphere is great and the many different characters that partake is amazing. We stopped for a drink en route to Flamingo Lodge - their luxury B&B guesthouse in Umhlanga Rocks for the next two nights.

On Wednesday, we went shopping, to the Cafe Fish for lunch and a bit of sight-seeing in Durban. Thursday morning dawned as usual - with the sun rising in the east over the Indian Ocean. The Toyota Corrola which I had ordered from my Car hire company turned out to be a BMW 318iS, as they had no Corrola's in stock - what a pleasure and obvioulsy much to Dave and Bernies shock - imagine going on safari in Africa in a BMW! - Anyway, it was very comfortable, economical and a great car to drive, with lots of buttons and switches to press!

We left Durban, stopping first at the Port Edward bakery to eat those humungus Chelsea Buns! The scenic drive through the Transkei soon had Dave clicking away with his camera with every corner unfolding a different vista. We popped in to Lusikisiki to make arrangements for the next day and then continued to Port St Johns - The Pont. Accommodation was in rustic reed huts on stilts and the hosts were friendly and welcoming. We had a lovely braai that night on the banks of the Umzimvubu River after watching sunset from the airstrip on the top of the southern Gate of PSJ. Friday we drove back to Lusikisiki to meet our taxi at the police station, who drove us along the shocking road to Lupatana (as the BMW would not have negotiated that road, at all).

Leaving the Taxi driver to sleep for the next 3 hours, we walked to the beautiful Waterfall Bluff, where the river plunges 84 metres over the cliffs into the sea and then we walked to the rockpools for our lunch, before returning for our bumpy ride back to our Lusikisiki and then back to PSJ. Dinner that night was an affair - what a treat! We went to Lillies Restaurant and were warmly greeted by Milton, the waiter in a tux. Lillies is made of bamboo reeds that are varnished and it is set highup on a sand dune overlooking 2nd beach - so with Xhosa music playing in the restaurant, the waves crashing in the background and a candlelit table, with a one-eyed waiter - what an atmosphere. We were treated like kings and especially so with Dave and Bernie being on Honeymoon. We had a fantastic meal and I mean fantastic - such HUGE helpings and so, so tasty and then to top it all - VERY economically priced - I'll be back, that's for sure. After the delicious dinner, we gave Milton and the chef a lift home! Unfortunately we did not meet Lillie, a Xhosa woman, who was on leave with her Irish husband - hopefully next time.

Saturday was my birthday - but no-one in the Transkei knew, so we continued to Coffee Bay, stopping to refuel in Umtata and also introducing Dave and Bernie to South African biltong! Now they are hooked on biltong - it took a lot of will-power along the route for them to stop buying biltong at each stop!! Arriving in Coffee Bay - we found out what Polla's "making a plan" meant - Dave and Bernie decided to stay at the White Clay Lodge - backpacker accommodation - rather rustic but adequate. The stunning views from the rooms make up for the lack in cleanliness and luxury. The company was great with people from the UK, Switzerland, Netherlands, Australia, Canada and Zimbabwe being in residence. Coffee Bay saw us enjoying the warm hospitality of the locals with traditional dinner and Xhosa dancing at Betty's Tavern. Probably the highlight of anyones Coffee Bay stay. Dave and Bernie also walked the 7kms to Hole-in-the-Wall, (photo on my website!) - from where I collected them to return to Coffee Bay. We also visited the amazing 9-hole golf course that is situated along the cliffs overlooking the sea and Coffee Bay. I tried looking for the holes on the greens but I think the cows had dropped a 'landmine' or two into them! The ride back to Umtata was quick along the tarred and twisty road, and then we continued to Kokstad for shopping and then to Sani Pass Lodge - another backpacker rustic accommodation. Again, many international folk in residence, some from Coffee Bay as well - like the Swiss guy, the Dutch couple and Tom - the 'travelling gypsy' as he might be described who lives on the backpackers staple diet of peanut butter, bread and beer!

It was nice to sit in the warm and cosy lounge with all the other folk around the crackling fire in the evenings. An American teacher with his one student were there along with an Australian lady and her mother, plus a British couple who had riden on a motorcycle from England across Africa! The highlight of the Sani Pass stay was going up the daring Sani Pass with Jonathan again - this time in his Landcruiser. We stopped a number of times en route for photos and explanations and then reached Sani Top Chalet - were we spent time exploring the area and enjoying a hearty meal - sitting outside in the sun - with the diningroom crowded with other tour groups.

Early the next morning, we left the chilly -3 degrees Sani Pass and drove to Howick Falls for a quick pitstop continuing to Volksrust for a picnic lunch and then on to Sabie. We stopped at the Rottcher Winearies briefly before arriving at Merry Pebbles - one of South Africas top resorts. Dinner was an enjoyable and tasty one at the resorts restaurant and then the next day we spent touring through the Panoramic Route. The stops included Lone Creek, Sabie and Mac-Mac Falls, God's Window, Bourkes Luck Potholes, Pilgrims Rest and Blyde River Canyon. We returned at sunset to Merry Pebbles and the ate at the Fig Tree Restaurant where Bernie and I enjoyed Impala Venison - a common local antelope.

After breakfast we drove up the Long Tom Pass and then were escorted through Echo Caves - a bit of crawling involved, but many stalactites and -mites, plus a few bats! We arrived at the Moholoholo Forest Camp and after a warm welcome, Tony guided us through the animal rehabilitation centre. Really interesting and educational - I can't wait to return there with the Backus's and Rachel in October. Lions, leopard, lynx, vultures, servat cats and many other birds. Most of the animals/birds have been injured or orphaned, or even neglected in captivity, so are being nursed back to health before being released in the wild, where possible. After sunset we went for a night game drive where we spotted giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, duiker, impala plus a few other animals. Dinner was absolutely great - why is my stomach so small? I hate those lodges or hotels who put on such a spread - my tastebuds say go back for 2nds and 3rds, but my stomach says 'enough is enough!' The actual rooms are great, except my bed was very squeeky and the shower rose was so low I had to bend down so much - I guess Dave must have also bent a lot as he is 7 foot tall! Well, after a good nights sleep, with owls hooting, lions roaring and the bushpigs grunting in the background, we enjoyed another great meal - breakfast - oh, so much food!!!

We stopped at the Hoedspruit Cheetah Project on our way into Kruger - which was enjoyable, but unfortunately cut short by their staff management. We had the project explained to us and then went on a short drive to view the cheetah, ground hornbills, other cats and the wild dogs - one of whom had just given birth but unfortunately two of them had been removed from the den and were dead - not sure if they had been killed (which sometimes happens with wild dogs) or died from natural causes. On our way out we say a caretaker with a sheep taking the baby elephant for a walk! The elephant had fallen down a well and been abandoned by the rest of the herd after 4 days and now the Hoedspruit project were having to feed the elie back to health. Well, this sheep (a mother) had been involved in assisting many animals back to health. She acts as a mother figure until she is not needed anymore!!

Kruger Park, as always, was great. We unfortunately entered it the same day that the school holidays started, so we had hundreds of these dumb idiots rushing into the park, disregarding the speed limits, disregarding game viewing etiquette normally practiced, and generally making it VERY unpleasant game viewing, especially when something interesting is sighted! This was not only the idiots from a certain province in SA, but also some Tour Guides with minibuses or 4x4's!! Well, with us in a BMW and Gauteng number plates - I did not get much sympathy from other road uses! Don't blame their first impressions - BMW owners, with GP number plates are probably the worst drivers apart from our indigenous taxi drivers!!

Our game viewing was highly succesful despite being in a low car. Patience has its virtue! We saw The Big Five a number of times, plus cheetah, plus wild dog, plus hyhena, plus many other animals including the idiotic homo sapiens! Dave and Bernie went on one night drive from Pretoriouskop, with a knowledgable game ranger - which made the drive even more interesting. He stopped the vehicle at one point, turned off the engine and lights and told everyone to get out - just to enjoy the silence and the stunning starry skies - makes a great difference.

Departing reluctantly from Kruger Park, we headed into Swaziland and to the Glass factory - boy was that interesting! We could have spent hours there watching them blow the glass and make the different products. I spent a small fortune there on many different gifts for friends and family, before we continued to the craft market in the Ezulwini Valley. Here we could have all spent a small fortune - so many nice curios. What was really 'amusing' to watch was the Swazi locals. A cow had been knocked down by a car the previous night and the locals were going wild with penknives hacking pieces of meat off this dead cow which was lying on the side of the road - with a bloated and stinking stomach!! Free meat does not often come their way. We continued to the Milwane Game Sanctuary - a great place to stay at. The accommodation we chose were the traditional beehive huts, where you have to bend down very low (on hands and knees) to enter. Inside there are two beds, with a small fridge and a 'tunnel' to the bathroom nearby. Very different (as promised to Dave and Bernie - "every day will be different" !). We sat around the fire and ate our dinner, after watching the sunset over the waterhole and the resident hippos. Again, the food was great and a huge helping. I remember I had Wildebeest Sausage with vegetables and salad. Breakfast was tasty and we sat in the restaurant protruding over the waterhole.

Our drive back into South Africa was uneventful, but scenic. First stop was Ilala Weavers in Hluhluwe for a few more curios and a delicous lunch. The best hamburger and chips I have ever had! Dave had Assegai Chilli Chicken Wings - hot and tasty. Arriving at Shakaland, we immediately joined the Guide Richard on the tour into the Zulu Village - which as always, was enjoyable and very interesting. As there were two bus groups in residence there for the night, we decided to sit outside under a thatched roof and eat our scrumptous traditional dinner followed by the delicious dessert. The Zulu warriors then came down to the restaurant to invite us to the chiefs hut to enjoy some good foot-stomping, drum-beating dancing. It was really great and ended off on a VERY unusual note - the chief stood up and did one of his ceremonial dances - great excitement amongst the warriors and also myself - as I have been there many times and never seen him perform before.

The warmest welcome of the safari awaited us at Mfuli Ranch - waiting in Dave and Bernies chalet was a bottle of champagne and some flowers - congratulating them on their Honeymoon. Very nice and touching. Phil added a touch of British humour in the morning with Dave and Bernie, at the breakfast table, before we departed for the Nongqai Fort in Eshowe. Arriving in back at Flamingo Lodge, Bert was there to welcome us. The following day we went to do a bit of shopping at the fleamarket and then on the Saturday afternoon, I took Dave and Bernie to the Temple of Understanding - a Hare Krishna temple en route to the airport. The temple is a remarkable decorative architectual building and always proves to be interesting to my guests.

It was a sad farewell to Dave and Bernie at the airport - in what I hope is the first of a number of visits. They are keen to return to hike some of the areas we visited and also the Umfolosi Wilderness trail. One of the comments that they made were about the weather - our winter was similar to their summer! We have tremendous winter weather here - warm sunny days with cool and chilly nights - sometime freezing in the higher altitudes.

See you next year folks!

I mentioned last month that I had employed Alice as my secretary - well during my absence, she has done a tremendous job of keeping my office alive and kicking (as Belinda said the other day), and on top of it - she is enjoying her work. It is very stimulating and exciting, plus fun working out itineraries for people and also chatting to people via e-mail. I just wish everyone would acknowledge their e-mails immediately - it takes up a lot of time doing follow-ups - as we know that some e-mails do go astray, or peoples computers crash...so PLEASE, whenever you get an e-mail - just send a quick note back say "e-mail received - will answer when have more time" - if you are not able to comment or reply immediately. Both Alice and myself try and acknowledge or reply to all e-mails within 48 hours, if not even 12 hours - obviously over weekends is a different situation. We have averaged 10.2 incoming e-mails a day over the past 3 weeks and 7 hits a day to my website over the past 6 months - so we are kept very busy - hence the importance to know that you have received your reply from us.

As regards our office - well, it is up, fitted out and operational! I have completed the electrical wiring, the alarm system and just yesterday, an intercom to the house! I have fitted shelves for the many books,files & manuals that are useful to us, plus curtain rails for future and also about a dozen of my enlarged photos of different scenic areas of Southern Africa. I just have to construct an awning over the front door, shadecloth over the roof (for the summer sunshine) and also a concrete slab in the front - where Abby keeps digging!!

Abby had her op. a week ago to sterilise her and she took two days to recover properly to herself again - and is back to digging everywhere and laying 'landmines' every otherplace!

Didi and her enjoy having tug-of-war with two old stretchy socks that I tied together for them.

Abby nipped the chap who delivered the BMW and I scolded her severely hoping she won't repeat that unfortunate incident. She has also learnt how to 'fall' through the patterned 'holes' in the front fence - seems as though I am going to have to do some work on that fence now!

Didi is driving me crazy with her tennis ball. Every minute I move, she runs in front of me and drops her tennis ball and then wants me to play! If I don't, then she starts swearing at me!! Dumb dog!

Big news came into our family on the 9th - my brother, Sean, became a father for his first time! Congrates to Sean and Monica on the birth of their little daughter, Erin. A great exciting moment for all and she is going to prove a great little sister to James and Katie. (Monicas two children from previous marriage.) My turn next I guess!

The day before the birth, Sean had his cellphone stolen from him and the neighbouring farm had a run-a-way fire which burnt the telephone cables to his farmhouse!!

On the communications side - it is so nice to stay in touch with past guests of mine - some are planning to travel back to SA and others are making me jealous by telling me about their travels to other parts of the world. I also have occassional letters/e-mails from prospective guests and future guests - and then also people who have become friends, just from them having visited my impressive website - which I often receive compliments about - in fact just today I received another compliment from someone in Namibia! (Thanks to Matthew, again, on a job-well-done!)

I have a Guestbook which is designed to provide some feedback to me and also prospective guests on what my past trips have been like. There are often e-mail addresses there of the guests, so that you can contact them if you want to find out more details about me and my company. Visit the website by clicking here:

http://members.tripod.com/bin/premium_guestbook?member_safaris

Surfing the net last night, I came across a handy site to go to - if you want to work out the currency equivalent of any services or quote - click here and do your simple calculation:

http://www.xe.net/currency/

Obviously remember - the US$, the UK Pound, the Japanese Yen and of course the SA Rand (ZAR) are fluctuating daily. Yesterday the US$ = R6.30 and the UK Pound = R10.21 - compare that with last months rates which I mentioned in the May entry of Dean's diary.

So, now is a good time to pay for your holiday to Sunny South Africa! I do not quote my guests in Dollars or Pounds, so you, my guest, benefit from our exchange rate! (Quite a few other companies quote in Dollars due to our fluctuations.)

I was watching a car hire companies advert on TV this evening and I noticed that their rate was very low - well, I could also quote very low, however - my car hire quotes include Collision insurance, include Theft insurance, include Personal Accident Insurance, include Local delivery charges, include Additional Driver surcharges, include Airport surcharges, include Contract fees, include VAT at 14% and also include UNLIMITED kilometres - this is an excellent deal for those people wanting to be independent and drive themselves around our beautiful country.

This past weekend, on the Saturday, I attended a friends wedding. I have known Katie for the past 11 years - when her brother came into the Cubs and then Scouts. In a previous Diary entry I mentioned a friend John who took me to the airport - well, in 1988 I joined John, Liz, Katie and Douglas on a safari to Botswana - my first visit to this lovely country. Douglas joined my Scouts and later John became my assistant and later successor as Scout Leader of 1st Glenashley. John is now the District Commissioner. Well, a lovely wedding it was. Katie looked absolutely stunning - boy, if only I was 10 years younger. Angus is so lucky to have such a special young lady as his wife. With John and Katie entering the church, it soon brought a lump to my throat and Angus says a huge lump to his! The exchanging of Vows, the reception and the speeches - they were all very good - congrats must go to Liz on all the hard work in the wedding preparations and well done to John and Liz on bringing up such a fine daughter. I wish Katie and Angus all the best in their future married life and also for when they emigrate to Brisbane.

My gardener, Nkosinyathi, who became a painter spent the three weeks at my friend Toms place doing all the painting - and from all accounts - a great job was done. He returned to our house this week, to finish his work here and also to help erect the concrete fence in the backyard.

Tom's wife, Johness and daughter, Dominic, have now moved down to their newly painted house and I seem to have made friends with their two dogs, except the Rottweiler - I am still not too sure about - especially when Tom has the sign - "Do you believe in life after death - Enter and find out!" - on his front gate!!

Johness's grandmother - who I have been friends with since 1983, when she hosted me for a few days during my European holiday, has emigrated to the South Coast - and it was planned to take her, plus her daughter and husband, on a holiday later this year to Cape Town. Cathleen is a sprightly 90 and so full of joy and happiness - it really shows you what life is all about if you put your mind to it, with a positive attitude. The planned holiday has been postponed, unfortunately, but I do hope to show Cathleen around soon - she is so looking forward to seeing some of our country.

I did mention last month that I have had a number of enquiries for 1999 - well, as time develops, so I have more. So if you are planning a forthcoming holiday for next year - e-mail me, with all your ideas and wishes, in fact fill in an enquiry form and send it off to me. The more ideas I have from you, the better shall be your holiday. As all safaris are tailor-made, there is no set price - however, I have built up quite a bank of itineraries, so will gladly e-mail you a copy of a previous trip, with prices, so that you can get an idea of what is available - maybe you would like to follow a similar route. Newcomers to Southern Africa - we have a huge country - Dave and Bernie exclaimed a number of times how huge the country was - I mean, Kruger Park is as big as Wales, and South Africa itself is nearly 5 times the size of Great Britian!! (1 100 000 square kilometres). Botswana is also big, measuring in at 600 000 sq kilometres, Zimbabwe is 400 000 sq Kilometres (about 3 times the size of England), Namibia is about 824 000 sq kms and Mocambique is approximately 800 000 sq kms. So these are large countries and it is NOT possible to visit two or three countries in 10 or 14 days - and say you have visited them! You honestly need more time to explore them properly to enjoy them. I do not enjoy racing from one attraction to the next, just to spend 10 or 30 minutes at one place before racing off to the next corner of the country - I recommend that if this is your first, or even 2nd visit, let's concentrate on a few areas and destinations rather than cram them all in two weeks and then you actually forget where what is and why!

95% of my guests choose to join me on a tailor-made safari because they do NOT enjoy the large group tours where at 10 past you have to eat, then at half past the bus MUST leave and by 20 to, you must pick your nose because at 5 to you will be arriving - boy, what type of holiday is that. You might recall that Dave and Bernie were prefering other people to join them on their safari, for more company and also to reduce the cost - well, after about 3 or 4 days, Dave said that they were glad no-one else did join us, as we could quite easily decide daily what our schedule for the next day was to be - what time we could rise, eat breakfast - when to stop for lunch etc - so much more flexible - well, that is one HUGE advantage about going on a tailor-made safari. I have been told by Carl and his Navy safari, and also Dave & Bernie, plus other clients that I should forwarn prospective guests that my trips are economically priced (cheap - except, Dave says the word cheap is a warning word - people think they are getting a rubbish service then). The food, service, scenery, accommodation, transport and roads is of a very good standard - remember, Hotels throughout the world are similar - I prefer to take you on a route to experience the real Africa, the true South Africa - a nice cross-culture of people and places. I can offer 'cheap' budget safaris - like the participation camping safaris, or budget rondavels, or I can offer you middle of the range - B&B guesthouses and 2 star hotels, or I can offer you luxury safaris - using the top private lodges in the country and the best hotels - nothing is the same on my safaris - as you also have a choice of using a combination - which is what a lot of people prefer. "Ask and thou shall receive.."

Of the near future - I will be taking David and his family on a one week safari next - showing them a bit of Durban and then up to Umfolosi Game reserve for a few days game viewing, and then we continue to Sani Pass Hotel for two nights before returning to Durban, for their flight back to Cape Town. Davids son, Stephen, is studying at University in Cape Town and the family have come out from Belgium for a holiday with Stephen. A few days later I depart for Namibia where I meet Koen and friends for a camping/hutted safari for 17 days, ending in Cape Town. So I guess my next entry shall only be on my return towards the end of August.

Now to end on a happy note - I have just completed my Western Cape Tourist Guide exam, and I passed that - so that is another qualification to my name.

Well, that's all my news folks - hope to hear from you soon and to my past guests and friends, do keep in touch. Alice will alert me of your happenings on my return from any safaris.

All the best

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